St. Lucia: Soufrière, part 2

14 may 2025
The town of Soufrière is located in the southwest of St. Lucia in front of Petit Piton, one of the two famous pyramid-shaped volcanic mountains: the Pitons. Gros Piton is 771 meters high and Petit Piton is slightly smaller at 743 meters. The Pitons, the sea and the rainforest as a backdrop provide a perfect picture for a visit to this relaxed and relatively undeveloped town in the south of St. Lucia. Given that the name is the French word for “sulfur”, it should come as no surprise that there are so many hot springs and mineral baths. When the small town was founded by the French in 1746, it thrived on sugar cane plantations, but today the residents of Soufrière make their living mainly from tourism.

Over the years, Soufrière has been hit by earthquakes, hurricanes and tropical storms. The town has been rebuilt several times, but it has still retained its originality. French wooden houses with balconies and modern cement buildings are pressed close together along the narrow roads. The streets have sidewalks and large gutters that lead rainwater from the mountains to the sea. During the French Revolution, several prominent French men were beheaded by guillotine on the central square. On the east side of the square is the `Lady of Assumption church`, built in 1953. A few fun facts; the national beer, Piton beer, is named after the mountains. The flag of St. Lucia, which consists of a black and gold layered triangle, is also inspired by the Pitons.

Another changeable day in terms of weather. One moment the sun is shining and then another rain shower breaks loose. As soon as it dries up a bit, we collect all our waste and sail with the dinghy to the dinghy dock. It is a rather high jetty, but fortunately there is a kind of staircase that makes it a bit easier for us to climb up. This dinghy dock is guarded during the day and the security lady (neatly in uniform) comes to meet us. She explains where we can dispose of our waste. Then we walk towards the petrol station to fill a jerry can with petrol, which Fred immediately brings back to the dinghy. Then we wander a bit through the streets of the village. At a supermarket we ask if they have Coca Cola Zero in large 2-litre bottles, but here too they only have the mini bottles. We are surprised that they do not have this on the entire island. Then we go for a drink at a local bar. A mini kitten comes to see who we are, curious. So cute! The temptation is great, but I won’t take him along, one cat on board is enough.

Tattoos
For quite some time I have been thinking about getting my second tattoo. It took a while, but now I know what I want and Fred agrees. I discovered on the internet that there is a tattoo artist here in town, who has very good reviews. After consultation we decide to walk over there to see what the possibilities are. It takes a while to find it, because there is no sign anywhere, but after asking a local lady we are directed to the right house. A friendly young man appears and takes us to the back of the house, here he has a small but clean room where he does tattoos. We explain what we would like and ask when he would have time. It is his day off and he is fully booked for the coming weeks. After we explain that we are sailors and will not be staying here for very long, he asks if we have time today. Of course we do! He asks us to come back this afternoon at 13:45. We walk back to the dinghy, buy some bananas at the local market and have lunch back on the boat. A little before the agreed time we sail back to town and of course it starts raining again. A short rain shower that is over when we arrive at the dinghy dock.

Why a tattoo?
Our personal opinion is that a tattoo should have a specific meaning. We would never just take a random tattoo. In the sailing world, various tattoos are made with a specific meaning. Of course you have the traditional ones, such as the anchor or a compass rose, but we don’t want that, we both want a swallow. Below I will tell you a little more about the reason and the meaning of the swallow.
The Swallow’s Historical Roots in Seafaring Culture
Historically, sailors and swallows have a deep connection. In the days of large ships and long sea voyages, seeing a swallow was a beacon of hope that land was near. Rarely seen far out at sea, these birds were seen as messengers of good fortune, announcing the end of a perilous voyage.

Swallows as Symbols of Experience and Maritime Achievement
In sailor culture, the swallow is not only a bird, but also a sign of honor. Traditionally, a sailor earned the right to a swallow tattoo after sailing 5,000 nautical miles at sea, as a symbol of his experience and resilience. A second tattoo after 10,000 nautical miles marked even more skill and adventure. For the record, the circumference of the earth is 21,639 nautical miles, which is equal to 4.16 swallows.

Myths and Legends of Seafaring
One such belief is that when a sailor dies at sea, swallows carry his soul to heaven. This legend gave the bird a sacred status among sailors, as a symbol of protection and respect for those lost in the ocean. Today, the swallow tattoo remains a popular emblem among sailors, naval personnel, and maritime enthusiasts. It serves as a tribute to the age-old tradition, symbolizing respect for the vastness of the ocean and a reminder of the sailor’s journey and experiences. In the context of sailor tattoos, the swallow is more than just a symbol. It encapsulates the essence of a sailor’s life – freedom, adventure, skill, and an enduring connection to home. When we consider the meaning of the swallow, we are reminded of the deep, historical connection between humanity and the sea.

The tattoos
This is also the reason why we chose the swallow. Because we have covered 18,445 nautical miles so far, we would like to have three swallows tattooed. When we arrive at the tattoo artist, his name is `Ridge` and the name of his company is `Artistry Pleasures` (see Instagram: ridgetattoos).

We take a seat and explain what the intention is. We both want the same tattoo, me on my right upper arm and Fred on his left upper arm. It takes some puzzling which and how these should be positioned on our arm. Ridge is very patient and together we come up with a good design. I (Caroline) am the first to go. He prints out the picture and makes a print on my arm. Ridge is not satisfied with the first print and does it again. After we agree together on how it should be, I take a seat on the tattoo table. Ridge has put down a large fan, because it is very warm. During the entire session we listen to a remix of all sorts of old songs and talk about sailing, among other things. He shows pictures of the tattoos he has done and tells us that the oldest couple was 67 years old. To which I immediately asked the ‘mean’ question how old he thought we were! His answer: 51 years! How sweet, as far as Fred is concerned he is 17 years off. There you go………………the sailor’s life keeps you young! It is 14:30 when he starts. Fred takes pictures and videos in between, also with Ridge’s mobile phone, who will send us everything later.

It is not painful, but it does take a long time. He is very professional and a perfectionist and we are only happy about that. Every now and then I have to stretch my legs, because I get a wooden butt from sitting for so long. Ridge tattoos the first part with 1 needle and then to accentuate and fill it in he replaces it with 7 small needles. That is a bit more painful, but all in all it is very bearable.

Around 5:00 PM I am done and because Fred also has to be done it will be a late night and so Ridge suggests having some food delivered. We think that is an excellent idea. Ridge knows a good restaurant that can deliver wraps, among other things. Until the food is delivered he continues with Fred. Then we eat something and he continues.
Fred’s tattoo is placed on his left upper arm in mirror image of mine. Because it is the same it goes a bit faster now. Unfortunately for Fred Ridge uses 15 needles instead of 7 to fill it in. But according to Fred it was not too bad. Around 8:00 PM Fred is also done.
After we have taken a few more photos and videos, paid, we get some advice from Ridge about the aftercare of our tattoos. Ridge covers them with a special transparent skin plaster, which has to stay on for 24 hours. The next day we have to carefully dab with lukewarm water until it no longer gives off. Only on Saturday (in 3 days) we have to treat it with the ointment he gave us. In a few days it will already look better, but it will take a few weeks for everything to heal. For now we are extremely happy with the result!

We say goodbye to him and say we will definitely come back again. Fortunately, the rain has stopped when we walk back to the dinghy. Tired, but satisfied, we arrive at the boat. The rest of the evening we hang out on the couch.

Thanks Ridge, we are very happy with the beautiful tattoos!

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